Winter is here. The family has already booked their tickets to Bali. Three years ago I was there to celebrate a milestone 40th. I am almost tempted again.
Last time, the Gili Islands had cropped up as a short sojurn. Never heard of it – but thank goodness for Google.
Three days away from the crowds of Kuta sounded like bliss – snorkelling the reefs with an eye out for turtles. Pack light I was told. Arriving at the ferry up the coast from Kuta, I could see why. The bevy of girls heading to the “party” island of Gili T, were either going for the long haul with outfits for every night; or they had checked out of their hotels in Kuta – entire luggage in tow.
First tip: If you intend exploring the outer areas of either Bali or Lombok, it’s better to hunt out cheaper accommodation outside of Kuta and simply keep the bulk of your luggage there for the duration. You cannot sneeze at $NZ35 a night in a three-star hotel, with air con, TV; plus pool, bar and restaurant. Bakung Beach Resort is as good as any – across from an alley of market shops, leather makers, tattooists, massage and beauty therapists. Cars sit outside for hire; there are operators to book tours with. There’s even a mall and supermarket within walking distance. The beach is down the lane. Brilliant.
So with the bus booked, ferry tickets sorted and a beachfront hotel arranged on Gili Air, all I needed was a backpack of light gear. Whatever I missed, I could buy on the island. The ferry to Gili Islands is a blast if you love the full throttle of nine outboards barrelling funnel waves from the back of the boat. Leaving from Padangbai, it’s about a couple of hours – stopping at Lombok, Gili Air, Gili Trawangan and Gili Meno.
Just off the coast of Lombok, these islands tick the back-to-basics box superbly – no cars, no motorbikes – just pure relaxation and heaven for divers and snorkelers. Gili means “small island”. And, while there are gilis all around Lombok, the reference to Gili Islands means this trio.
The largest and most heavily developed – Gili Trawangan or Gili T for short – has become a stopover for partygoers. Its growing status has drawn comparisons with Ibiza in its early years. Gili Meno is the quietest of the three – a laid-back vibe encouraging horizontal relaxation if you want to do nothing and simply laze, swim or snorkel.
Gili Air sits in-between – less developed than Gili T, but more than Gili Meno. Development is happening though – a 200-room hotel underway when I strolled the island’s circumference. Walk fast and you can do it an hour. Take the slow option and be sure to stop off at restaurants and bars that dot the village-like clusters around the island.
Bikes can be hired; but be warned, the sand path can bog you down in places. There’s always a pony and cart – or ‘cidomo’. Ponies look well fed – but seem to lack water in the tropical heat. Trying to ask some owners about their ponies and this mode of transport, English conveniently dries up as a means of communication. When in Rome, I guess. Needless to say, I preferred Shank’s pony. 
Restaurants and nightlife is fabulous on Gili Air – numerous choices to sit on the beach with the water lapping around your feet, sipping cocktails at happy hour and deciding which haunt to head to next. Blood moon festivals give cause for fireworks. There’s even a cinema for kids. Everything here is a constant surprise.
Snorkelling is a must do – day trips easily organised with various operators who will take you around the islands to the best spots; drop you on to a beach somewhere for lunch and end the day near sunset back on the shores of Gili Air and a date with more nightlife. Utter bliss.
Just don’t wait too long to go. Twenty five years ago, there was virtually nothing on Gili Air apparently. The resorts are coming in droves. In another 10 years, the Gilis will be crowded. Let’s just hope the carts don’t give way to motorbikes.
Thanks to: Jolanda Kravitz for the underwater pix
When to Go:
Best months to scuba dive are May to September
Getting There:
A variety of fast ferry options with tickets often including transfer to and from hotels in Kuta. Check gilibookings.com
Where to Stay:
7Seas-cottages.com – beachfront
Dining:
Try Scratch Beach Club at the Grand Sunset Hotel for the perfect sunset
